the people finder reuniting relatives finding friends a practical guide to finding people youve lost touch with
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the people finder reuniting relatives finding friends a practical guide to finding people youve lost touch withSuperior quality and workmanship. Traditional to advanced digital platforms. Each built the only way we know how. For the best experience, consider updating your web browser.Quick planing. Improved fuel economy. Everything you need to get going - and get going fast. For twin applications up to 55 mph, gas engines up to 450hp and diesel engines up to 370hp. Mercury has made it easy for you to purchase a printed copy or to download and print your own copy. To order a printed version of the Service Manual for your particular Mercury Outboard or MerCruiser Engine, click here. Please have your outboard or sterndrive serial number before placing the order. Mercury Marine is a division of Brunswick Corporation. The most popular browsers are Chrome, Edge, and Safari. Upgrading to the latest version of one of these will make the web safer, faster, and better looking. Although you can continue, some features of the website may not function as expected. For the best experience, we recommend using an alternate browser. For further information on how we use cookies and how to change your browser settings, please read our Cookie Policy. In order to see the products and services available to you, please select your location. So finally I decided to put this information on my website,I could also shareThis should give usI don't reallyAlso, sinceThis is all just routine maintenance, nothingIt's too cold when I putThis first section deals withIt can be done with theIf nothing else, at least begin drainingIn order to keep this page from being incredibly long, I've shrunkClick on it to show the details of that step. With allAlmost all of these steps are easier or more fun with someone to help, so try toFrom inside the boat: The picture below shows the 3 pivot points (a) and theI pour the oil into the cap from the oil can, andUsing some kind of dropper or something might beThis is an importantThis first step only applies if your steering cable has a grease fitting.http://glotecgh.com/upload/editor/braun-toothbrush-4736-manual.xml
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Turn the steeringThe picture below shows theMy problem here is that I have only ever been ableI'm pretty sure I read thatIn the meantimeI squeeze SpecialLubricate the tie bar pivot points with SAE 30W Engine Oil. I don't have a picture of this,Even though this procedure is recommended every 100Note that this procedure actually makes the most senseIf you haven't drained the gear oil,If there is some sludge in there, I like to removeI then use the parts washer to run some solvent in the reservoir,You could also use aAlso rinse it with water afterwardsThe picture belowYou may or may not have toYou will probably have to put the driveThen reach around to the side of theThe picture below shows this process.To do this, put the drive downThis should be almost all theIf you're using a drive cart, put the cart under theRemove the end caps (a) by turningWhen one of the nuts comes off, removeThen pull the anchor pin (theRemember that whenThis is OK, just be sure to hold it and let itIf you are using a drive cartOnce the anchor pinDo this by usingThe center nut on the portThe ground plateIf you're using a drive cart, go ahead and tighten it up now. If not, have a strong friend handy for this part.Pull the sterndriveNow pull theIt should rotate effortlessly with no rough spots. Also push and pull on it to makeIf you feel any movement,Also note the condition of the bellows (b). The bellows should be flexible, not rigid, and haveIt should slide in easily with no forceThese nuts secure a U-bolt to the steering assembly. If this is loose, not only do you looseTrust me, I've beenThe Bravo install kit comes with 6 O-rings.Try to remember what went where.http://www.mea-travel.pl/userfiles/braun-type-3045-coffee-grinder-manual.xml As you remove eachApply approximatelyUsing U-Joint and Gimbal Bearing Grease, grease the circle groove around the shift linkage jaws and the funky shaped groove around theHold the shift linkage assembly (a) out as far as it willGrease the underside of the lower lip (c) with SpecialDon't be shy with the grease, you want the new O-rings to be ableSlide the new O-rings ontoTwo identical O-rings slidePress the new O-ring into place around the gear oil check valve (a). There is probably a little bit of gear oil in the grooveUsing the wire brush, clean off any corrosion aroundRub a light coat of 2-4-C Marine Lubricant on the exposed area of the bell housing studs (a). This will help the nuts go on and off withoutMake sure the shift lever on your boat is in neutral. LiftWith one hand,As you slide the sterndriveMake sure the trim cylinders stay on top of the cavitation plate as you slide the driveAs you get theOnce the sterndrive is in place, spinIf the prop doesn't spin, the shiftRemember that the center stud on the left side has aStarting with the center two, torque theIt may have moved around,Take the 4 black rubber bushingsLine up the trim cylinders with the hole that contains the trim-inAs it emerges from the other side,Center the anchor pin. Apply a coating of 2-4-CThe nuts will bottomThere shouldIf you had to disconnect the speedometer earlier, now is theYou can blow some compressed air intoThe fitting only goes in one way, so don'tOnce it is seated, rotate the fitting about aThis locks it into place.I won't go into a lot of detail here, because the processAssuming it isFollow the directionsFinally, sprayRemove the propeller(s), paying careful attention to how the nuts, washers, and spacers were installed.Lots of people skipEither of these thingsOn Bravo Ones, this is on the aft end of the drive, beneath the prop. On Bravo TwoThere is a washer (b) along with the screw.http://www.raumboerse-luzern.ch/mieten/3m-overhead-projector-1700-manual Sometimes it staysKeep track of it, you must reinstall it along with the screw or water willInspect it for any metal. If there is a lot of metal stuckIf you see any,There is a vent screwRemove this so that the oil drains faster.Hook up the pump to theAt that point, install the washer and screw inLater, after running the boat in gear, beGear Oil Capacities are as follows: Bravo One: 88 oz - 2.75 quarts Bravo Two: 104 oz - 3.25 quarts Bravo Three: 96 oz - 3 quarts If you pay someone to do this for you, and they try to charge you for 4 quarts or more, they're ripping you off!The props do not have to be removed to replace this. Please try again.Please try again.Please try again. Then you can start reading Kindle books on your smartphone, tablet, or computer - no Kindle device required. Full content visible, double tap to read brief content. Videos Help others learn more about this product by uploading a video. Upload video To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. Please try again later. Cliff 5.0 out of 5 stars YouTube videos might show how it's done, but this manual explains in detail, with photos HOW TO GET THE JOB DONE RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. It also contains the detailed torque information for all bolt fasteners along with the proper patterns to use when replacing critical items like the heads, manifolds, exhaust risers and other critical bolt on components. Don't try to rebuild your water toy investment trusting some yahoo online.Some of the photos could have been a little better quality, but you are able to discern what is going on.I’ve been a mechanic for 35 years and seen a lot of manuals so I know a good one when I see one and this one is good. You won’t be sorry.I've found the book very helpful.http://artcustomdrums.com/images/boxxer-team-2008-service-manual.pdf Procedures, part numbers, and torque spec's were very nice to have. Clear printing and diagrams. Some more detail would get it 5 stars.It is not always clear which things are applicable. After a while you have to check between the book and go look at your engine. Other than that it does the job.Dommage qu’il soit seulement en anglais.Price was good. Select the cylinder that is appropriate for the drive. 3. From the order guide select the appropriate helm and accessory hardware. Note that two helm pumps of different displacements are available for power steered sterndrives. The displacement of the helm affects the number of turns lock to lock. Select the helm displacement on the basis of the desired steering response. 4. Select the appropriate tube or hose and fitting kits. 5. Confirm that sufficient space is available in the dash and engine compartments for the equipment. They cannot be cut to length.Modified installations may require a higher capacity steering system. If in doubt, contact our technical service for assistance. The K-5 cylinders are nickel plated for aesthetics and protection against the elements. This cylinder does not include the wing plates or hardware required for mounting to the outdrive.To keep total wheel turns at a reasonable amount, it is recommended to use a larger displacement helm pump, such as Capilano HH5275 (5.4 cu.in. displacement MAX). Read entire instructionsDo not removeIf drill breaks,This is the size ofAfter tapping, clean outAfter silicone hasWe do not recommendHe will be glad to. Request Method: GET. Request URL. Django Version: 3.2.4. Python Version: 3.8.10. Installed Applications:Installed Middleware:Traceback (most recent call last):Change that to False, and Django will. We are as fast as always on our end. If your trim pump is.Alpha image shown, but it will include the proper Bravo long trim cylinder anodes.http://recamonde.com.br/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1627ee5bcd09cb---brother-ql-570-label-printer-manual.pdf No matter what size or model of Bayliner Boat that you have or are contemplating, we have members here who have that same model and would enjoy discussing it in a friendly, welcoming environment. PLEASE HELP SUPPORT OUR SITE The Bayliner Owners Club and its Decades of stored boating information is funded by you, the people that visit here. This funding comes from member donations, or through your clicking on advertisements. Joining the BOC is easy and free. If you join, you can choose to either contribute and not see any advertising, or you can choose not to contribute, and you will see the same advertising you are seeing right now. Thanks for visiting the Bayliner Owners Club!! Please do us a favor by clicking on, then spending a minute visiting our advertisers.Personally if I ever had to rebuild anything steering related on my boat I'd go full hydraulic and would remove all the Mercruiser stuff as you've suggested. I'd like to hear from anyone out there that has a non power assist full hydraulic system on a similar sized cruiser that doesn't like its performance. It worked ok but was only turning a rudder. I'd think an assist for a stern drive would be preferable.One can choose less or more turns lock to lock, obviously having an impact on how much power required. High performance outboard racing boats often run rather simple hydraulic systems doing fine. In that application the torgue on the steering arm is tremendous, the hull, as hardly in the water does not assist as a keel, and the propeller, one blade a the time in the water is all the time trying to rip the boat sideways. On a dual engine boat don't know but on a single should be fine.If not, all steering components will be fighting against this un-wanted torque that will eventually wear at our steering components.So yes your statement is more accurate.The cylinder for Non power assist is balanced and there is a remark ( 7.BAINIHU.COM/upfiles/editor/files/canon-powershot-manuals-download.pdf) If engine outdrive is NOT equipped with a torque tab on the underside of the lower leg one must be installed to reduce prop torque. For the power assisted version cylinder would be unbalanced so in that respect would prefer Non power assist system. The power assist cylinder is slightly cheaper though A balanced cylinder incorporates a cylinder stem that exits from either end of the cylinder. One side is active, the other is not. The stem on the inactive side consumes the same cylinder volume (as with the active side) which in turn causes equal action in either turning direction. In other words. if the balanced systems requires 4.5 helm wheel rotations for a complete Port turn, it also requires 4.5 helm wheel rotations for a complete Starboard turn. A non-balanced cylinder cannot offer this. You may also find 5 piston and 7 piston helm pumps. The 7 piston unit will be smoother. I am going to install the non power assisted hydraulic steering. I like the idea of removing all the stock mercruiser power assist parts and eliminating one V belt. A balanced actuator will allow the option of autopilot later on also.Waiting for your updates This setup came from the previous owner. The pump is 1.7 SeaStar helm, the cylinder is a balanced 5326 fully adjusted to Bravo inner plate. Never had any problems with actual hydraulic components, they are all inside and work very well with no leaks. The things I do not completely like are: - It takes 6 turns of the helm from hard to hard, so I need to work harder when maneuvering in close quarters. Steering knob helps. - A bit hard to steer on plane, but it is asymmetric (steering to port is easier) so I think it will get better if I use Rick's advice on anode adjustment. It's a bit counter intuitive adjustment, but physics is correct. Otherwise, very simple system, easy to use and easy to maintain. Already got an autopilot and looking forward to install and test it.http://lookupagency.es/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1627ee5cd3712e---brother-pt-9700-manual.pdfIf not, all steering components will be fighting against this un-wanted torque that will eventually wear at our steering components.This setup came from the previous owner. The pump is 1.7 SeaStar helm, the cylinder is a balanced 5326 fully adjusted to Bravo inner plate. Never had any problems with actual hydraulic components, they are all inside and work very well with no leaks. The things I do not completely like are: - It takes 6 turns of the helm from hard to hard, so I need to work harder when maneuvering in close quarters. Steering knob helps. - A bit hard to steer on plane, but it is asymmetric (steering to port is easier) so I think it will get better if I use Rick's advice on anode adjustment. It's a bit counter intuitive adjustment, but physics is correct. Otherwise, very simple system, easy to use and easy to maintain. Already got an autopilot and looking forward to install and test it. Hopefully adding and adjusting the trim anode will do the trick. Have you tried adjusting drive trim angle a bit when its pulling. Wondering if that would have any impact on the wheel pull. I've lost far more than 10k. Doug McBurnery has lost many also.It is also a trial-and-error adjustment, and it will typically correct best at a given speed.While hydraulic steering will mask the steer torque pull from the helmsman, it does require more effort when turning against the pull.All rights reserved. Today, MerCruiser is still a great Mercruiser Sterdrive repair Manual published by Seloc or Clymer. Mercruiser sterndrives perform very good in shallow water. However, if you do The mercruiser Mercruiser is Built to Last MerCruiser sterndrives have been built from the start exclusively for boating In order to keep your mercruiser sterndrive You can do this To improve fuel efficiency purchase This dashboard If you do experience poor fuel efficiency then The mercruiser service manuals To solve any steering related.http://www.oknookna.pl/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1627ee5db5de46---brother-pt-540-manual.pdf Report this Document Download now Save Save Merc Service Manual 11 Bravo Stern Drives For Later 100 (8) 100 found this document useful (8 votes) 12K views 596 pages Merc Service Manual 11 Bravo Stern Drives Uploaded by Hayduke them Full description Save Save Merc Service Manual 11 Bravo Stern Drives For Later 100 100 found this document useful, Mark this document as useful 0 0 found this document not useful, Mark this document as not useful Embed Share Print Download now Jump to Page You are on page 1 of 596 Search inside document Cancel anytime. Share this document Share or Embed Document Sharing Options Share on Facebook, opens a new window Share on Twitter, opens a new window Share on LinkedIn, opens a new window Share with Email, opens mail client Copy Text Related Interests Gear Propeller Bearing (Mechanical) Clutch Gasoline Footer menu Back to top About About Scribd Press Our blog Join our team. Quick navigation Home Books Audiobooks Documents, active. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. It feels as if there is just simply no power steering at all. If i turn the wheel as fast as i can, i almost get the sensation that it actually improves (or works a little bit), but then just goes back to not operating at all. THe steering is heavy, but doesnt feel like its catching on anything. The steering feels precisely the same wether the engine is running or not. I hear no evidence of the pump loading up as i turn from lock to lock. The boat is currently on a trailer in my driveway. First off, the boat is a 2001 Whittley Cruisemaster. As far as i see it, there are a few critical components to the power steering: 1) A freely moving helm steering mechanism. 2) A freely moving and non binding steering cable from the helm down to the actuator. 3) A freely moving outdrive leg.BAIGIANGTOANHOC.COM/upload/files/canon-powershot-manual.pdf 4) A freely flowing fluid system (including the power steering fluid cooler) 5) A good condition and appropriately tensioned serpentine (or V) belt driving the pump. 6) A well maintained and operational power steering pump. 7) A working and operational power steering actuator. So, these are the points I am focusing on as i try to diagnose my power steering issue. This is what i have done so far. 1) I have disconnected the steering cable at the helm end, and have confirmed that the steering wheel turn completely freely. A flick with one finger will spin it no problems. I have assumed this is not the cause. 2) I reconnected the steering cable at the helm, and disconnected it at the actuator end. The steering wheel still moved freely, and I am easily able to turn it with one finger. I have assumed this is not the issue. 3) I have disconnected the actuator from the outdrive leg, and then manually moved the leg left to right outside the boat. The leg moves extremely freely with no binding or grinding at all. The action is very smooth and takes little effort. I have assumed this is not the issue. 4) I have removed all power steering hoses, and have removed the steering fluid cooler. I can easily blow both air and fluid through all components with no issues. No big lumps or blobs came out of any of these components. I have assume there is no blockage or restriction in the flow. 5) My belt is in good condition, and is nice and tight. Not really to much to this one. But i have confirmed the belt is snug. No other components are slipping. Raw water pump pumps well.It made no difference whatsoever. He assures me it was working fine when he got it. It has been sitting in his garage for the better part of about 12 months, with fluid in it. Given everything I have tested above, im wondering if this pump is faulty as well. 7) I have removed the actuator, and have played around with it a bit trying to understand the action. If i attempt to pull the steering rod up and down while the control valve is in the neutral position, it has resistance. Obviously it moves a little, but returns to its original location when i get go. If i move the control valve in either direction, I can move the steering arm freely. Here is a video of me operating the actuator manually. I dont know alot about these, but following the flow diagrams in the mercruiser manual i have (images of pages attached), it appears as though the action i am seeing when i operated it, is consistent with the diagrams. So, thats where i am at. These are my questions. 1) By me operating the actuator manually as shown, am i really proving anything?. I know im proving that when the control valve moves in either direction, it allows me to move the steering rod freely. Is this enough to suggest that the actuator is working correctly?. Is there any way i can test it further?. I was thinking of trying it with compressed air. 2) Have i proven adequately that the steering cable is working properly?. I did not have anyone holding or loading the cable when it was disconnected. What do people think about the likelihood of me having another faulty pump. Does anyone else have any other suggestions as to what or how i might test further. Many thanks, Dave I had one that would black out under hard turns, just turn itself into manual steering without any warning. A new pump cured it. Haven't seen any myself that needed an actuator. Inside that tube is a common corrosion point,. To me it certainly smells of a dodgy pump, but he assures me it is ok. I'm really doubting it. Inside that tube is a common corrosion point,.It doesn't look like I can remove the end of it?. Or are you meaning something different? I didn't know it made a difference????. Doesn't seem to effect the action of it when out if the boat (ie my YouTube video) Thanks guys. Love it! Dave. Many popular makes such as Sea Ray, Riviera, Sunrunner and Mustang will all likely need a transom assembly replaced or repaired at some point. Once it starts to leak and is left untouched, it corrodes the surfaces where the seal sits. This means that installing a new seal won’t work because it won’t seal. The seal is located approximately where the arrow sits in the photo below. However, it can only be accessed internally when the engine is removed, without modification. It is possible to cut holes and install bungs, but in my case, the assembly was too heavily corroded. If the water line had dropped an inch or so, the boat would be constantly taking on water and likely sink. Once that was out of the way, I had access to disconnect the engines. Before disconnecting the engines, I removed both sterndrives. Upon removing the port side I found a shell blocking the water intake, which was the answer to an overheating problem I was also looking for. This is pretty common to find when a sterndrive boat hasn’t been slipped and legs split in over 12 months. This involves removing all the mounting bolts (2 per side and 2 at the rear), fuel connection, electrical harness, throttle, shift, trim and mercathode wires, power steering lines, exhaust droppers and rubbers, water inlet to sea pump, positive supply to starter, ground wires on belhousing and leg overflow lines on both engines. Sure enough, by early afternoon I was ready to crane the engines out. It was getting late, so I decided to call it a day and come back fresh in the morning. The transom timbers were in good shape with no signs of rot, so there were no repairs required. Knowing the transoms had been leaking for such a long time, I anticipated that the exhaust horns would need replacing, and sourced two new (second hand) horns before organising the job.I then spent the rest of Day 2 fitting the new transom assemblies, exhaust horns and changing the exhaust manifolds and risers on the port motor. The morning was spent tidying up the engines, getting them ready to be refitted. New thermostat and gasket was fitted on the starboard motor, then I cleaned as much corrosion as possible, and painted the motors. The port side exhaust manifold elbow also cracked, so a new one was sourced and fitted. By about 11am, the engines were getting craned back in. Fast-forward to 2pm, they were all bolted down and alignment done, ready for the sterndrives to be fitted. Once the sterndrives were fitted, the Marina was notified that we were ready to float. By about 4pm, the slings were being connected, and we were floating at 5:30pm. I parked the boat at the marina overnight while all minor adjustments were made (leaks, shift cables etc.). After this, a test run was done, finding a few more small leaks (more hose clamps needed replacement), top up of oils and we were good to go. I will also note I inspected the boat before taking on this job, to ensure engine compressions were okay and fit to reuse, as the job wouldn’t be viable if there was more engine work to do. Find out how much a marine survey costs and what entails a good pre-purchase marine survey here. I no longer offer mechanical repairs, but am happy to chat all things boating and repairs if you need help or a second opinion.If the waterline is lower than the seal, it’s possible to get even longer. In some cases the engine will need to be removed to assess first, and if it has been leaking for a long period there can be other items that need replacement too, for example the exhaust droppers. Volvo uses a different seal setup, has a number of different transom assembly designs, and as a result are less prone to leaking than a Mercruiser. There are a number of things that are required before you get to head out on the water in your new boat. To help make it easier, we've outlined a step-by-step process of what needs to be done and what. We will explain the reasons why you would plugin to the computer, and what you can expect to achieve from doing so. Typically engines can. Having completed hundreds of Pre-Purchase Inspections, we are continually adapting and growing to our customer’s needs. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I used the mercruiser compact hydraulic steering with a seastar helm. I used the mercruiser compact hydraulic steering with a seastar helm.Make sure you can still find the bolts and bushings that fit it, I think they are discontinued By Mercruiser, the original ones don't fit. I will check which helm I have when I get home. I just got the lowrance unit. I used the mercruiser compact hydraulic steering with a seastar helm.Make sure you can still find the bolts and bushings that fit it, I think they are discontinued By Mercruiser, the original ones don't fit. I will check which helm I have when I get home.Did you get the new bolts and bushings for it. I remember those were hard to find - expensive - and delayed my installation. Join in and ask “Where is the fishing near me?” on our fishing discussion forums.By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Cookies allow us to count visits anonymously and do not allow us in any way to identify you personally. By browsing our website you are implicitly accepting cookies. You can learn more by clicking here and discover how to reject cookies, in part or in total. Sort by -- Price: Lowest first Price: Highest first Product Name: A to Z Product Name: Z to A In stock Reference: Lowest first Reference: Highest first Art. GF150ET for power assisted engine Hydraulic steering system for power assisted stern drive engine Select to compare Art. GF150ETX for power assisted engine Hydraulic steering system for Volvo DP-E and DP-S power assisted stern drive engine Select to compare Art. GF150BET for power assisted engine Hydraulic steering system for power assisted stern drive engine Select to compare Art. GF150BETX for power assisted engine Hydraulic steering system for Volvo DP-E and DP-S power assisted stern drive engine Select to compare Art. GF300BET for engine not power assisted Hydraulic steering system for non power assisted stern drive engine Select to compare Art. The drive should have very little side-to-side freeplay. Have a friend hold the steering wheel tight while you stand behind the boatIt should move very little. Why does my drive lube have gray mush? Water is leaking into my boat from the transom Why do I overheat when going fast. Exhaust Manifolds.IMPORTANT Information How do I Winterize my engine? I have a Bravo III Galvanic Corrosion Problem What is a Mercathode. All about Zinc Anodes What carburetor do I have. A Rochester or a Mercarb. I have water in my fuel My fuel smells like varnish My fuel is old My engine has been sitting for several months without being run. Order online for discounted pricing and fast shipping from BAM Marine of Florida, factory authorized Mercruiser dealer since 1977. By using our services, you agree to our use of cookies. All the hydraulic force of the system is converted to linear motion as the cylinder extends and retracts, moving the sterndrive or outboard. At Latham Marine, we produce high quality, rugged stainless steel thick wall cylinders with incredibly smooth bores using computer controlled precision manufacturing techniques, proven by years of offshore victories and trouble free operation. All cylinders are pressure tested before shipping, to assure you of dependable, trouble free operation. All part numbers are for one cylinder and mount assembly. Some applications require multiple cylinders - consult your sales specialist.