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Howard ROTAVATOR 300 Operating Instructions Manual View and Download Howard ROTAVATOR 300 operating instructions manual. Rotavators Howard 350 User Manual. To fit Howard 300. FITTING INSTRUCTIONS MANUAL.Howard gem rotovator for spares or repair.see photos.needs single. Copy of original Howard manual. It includes the operating and maintenance instructions for theEstablished in 2004 with over 30 years experience in the industry.http://www.bouwdata.net/evenement/elu-ept-1161-manual After that try and start making your own decks following those rules and play several games. Experiment and see what works. There are definitely some bad cards in the Core Set. After a while start editing and fine-tuning it, especially as new packs are released. I also like looking at what other people build and comparing it to my own. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Log In Sign Up User account menu 5 Completely new to the game. Any tips for building decks? Any tips for building decks? I've built and played with the decks given in the core set and wolves of the north. I was wondering the best way to start building and playing with my own decks. Couldn't find any help online, so though someone here could help me? 10 comments share save hide report 100 Upvoted This thread is archived New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast Sort by best Find people to talk about your decks with, either people have you play games, or on here, or the discord channel, or whatever. What is the average amount of each type of cards per deck. 30 character, 20 location etc etc. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Log In Sign Up User account menu 9 Game of Thrones LCG: What should I know? I've a copy of the HBO skinned version of the game from a while back and know that I'd have to pick up a copy of the 2nd edition card game if we wanted to keep playing. Can I get a bit of advice on the average spend required to get a good experience, any hurdles I should be aware of when it comes to collecting, and if there's any other games that are good for two folk that capture the experience of the show. Oh, and is it fun ? 30 comments share save hide report 68 Upvoted This thread is archived New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast Sort by best Depending on your budget, you could start with the core set for a bit and add in packs one at a time like released and go through the cycles that way. It would probably be a bit better that way to not get overwhelmed with the amount of plots and house cards that are now in the game. Only down side. I've had very few games end close, or even come back wins. Usually about half way through, sometimes sooner, it becomes clear who will win. Some decks do well against each other. Others just run away with the game, but that is how card games work. I'm currently playing a Greyjoy deck and my friend has been playing a Martel deck and those have been the close wins and could go either way. Yesterday he played a Targaryen deck against my Greyjoy and he couldn't do anything against it in two games. I've had very few games end close, or even come back wins. Usually about half way through, sometimes sooner, it becomes clear who will win Ah, that's my biggest fear. However, the comments about LCGs being a wallet eater are very valid so it really depends on how much you want to dig into the game. In terms of capturing the spirit of A Song of Ice and Fire, I think it captures the spirit of the series pretty well, but don't go in to expect to play the show. Imagine you get to take all the characters from Robert's Rebellion and beyond in order to re imagine a better outcome for that particular house. At least that's how I think when I play Baratheon deck and my main man Robert is still alive and kicking:-( Overall I think it's one the better end of a Game Of Thrones games, but I am not comfortable saying it is the definitive GoT experience on a table. Both of us love the politcking more than anything an I know the game has little of that - but it is cool to wield characters like Littlefinger and Ned Stark and see how thematically relevant they are. I play it a lot and talk about it every day. This is both a disclaimer and a recommendation. The headline, for my money, is that this game does a FANTASTIC job of capturing the spirit of the books. Many of the cards are just note-perfect mechanical interpretations of various aspects of the characters. It's why I fell in love with the game, but the gameplay really backs that up - there's a lot of depth, especially now that we're a few years out from the release of 2.0 and the cardpool has grown nicely. In my experience, it does a FAR better job of making you feel like you're in Westeros than any of the other half-arsed licensed games. First thing to look into, as you've already seen, is the Intro Decks. Released last year, they're very solid choices to try out the game, get a flavour of the various factions, and see if you like it without breaking the bank. After that, it's up to you how big you want to go. One format that I tried out with my local players is called 'Intro Plus', where you start with one Intro Deck then can choose one deluxe expansion and one Chapter Pack to mix and match cards and change things up. Lots of nice people there (though the AMAZING Thrones community is primarily active on Facebook, best group to search is A Game of Thrones LCG 2E Community). You can buy one core to see if you like it. If you do like it, I'd buy the deluxe expansions, they add a bunch of content for a relatively low price. I enjoyed it, and it struck me as a good option for a more accessible alternative to Netrunner (my main LCG) for 3-4P. I didn't try it with 2P, but my friends who owned the game mostly played 2P and they liked it. I don't see why it would need to be a money sink if you're just playing with friends. There's no obvious reason why you have to buy a second core set or many expansions. I suspect it's the same story with this game. I've only played it a few times, so take this with a grain of salt. I'd say it's not the greatest card game out there. It's alright, but it's not as good as a game with that theme could be. There are much better competitive card games. However, if your in it for the theme, the game is definitely not bad. I'm pretty experienced with AH:LCG so I can cope with the rules, but know FF are atrocious when it comes to edge-cases and resolving actions - which I know will be a pain when it comes to helping my partner learn the system. You don’t need 3 core sets and you don’t need all the cards. My wife and I play with just the core set all the time and its super fun. Join our community! Come discuss games like Codenames, Arkham Horror, Terra Mystica, and all your other favorite games! 3.4m Boardgamers 4.0k Online Created Sep 16, 2008 Join Top posts may 20th 2019 Top posts of may, 2019 Top posts 2019 Back to Top. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Log In Sign Up User account menu 22 Game of Thrones 2nd Edition Card Game - What to Buy I was originally just going to get the relatively affordable core set, and see how we liked it - we aren't really LCG players, so I just wanted something we could pull out every so often like we do with our other games. However, I've read the game isn't great with just the core set. If I'm looking for a basic, good experience for my game group (i.e. I'm not looking to make perfect competitive decks or buy every set, but I can possibly invest in a few sets if it means a balanced and fun game), what would you recommend I buy. We would generally play 2-4 players, and we are fine with advanced mechanics if that matters. 12 comments share save hide report 78 Upvoted This thread is archived New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast Sort by best I think having 3 greatly improves the balance and consistency of the decks. I play with 3 core sets, and I haven't bought any expansions and the game is still very fun. Make fealty decks for everybody, swap them around, then play the other 4 houses. Also be warry, Lannister and Stark will be stronger decks than the others, and you won't have enough of the must haves for 4 decks, but casually balanced you should be fine. I'm sure that can be fun but the deck building is a really huge part of the game (meta game), or at least it is to me. It's one of my favorites right now but I don't think I'd have as much fun playing if I were being more casual about it. Is everyone a fan of the source material at least. Join our community! Come discuss games like Codenames, Arkham Horror, Terra Mystica, and all your other favorite games! 3.4m Boardgamers 4.0k Online Created Sep 16, 2008 Join Top posts february 11th 2017 Top posts of february, 2017 Top posts 2017 Back to Top. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today!Several functions may not work. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality. There are, of course, many perspectives on the most important aspects of deck building. Frequent online advice address amount and type of card advantage, removal, and number of characters for a given deck archetype. More specific or advanced advice may guide players to consider metagame trends.There are, of course, many perspectives on the most important aspects of deck building. More specific or advanced advice may guide players to consider metagame trends. However, one of the most challenging aspects of deck building for new players, and an aspect that continues to perplex many players as they gain experience, is crafting a deck’s overall cost curve. For those unfamiliar with the term, “cost curve” refers not to the average cost of a card in the deck, but rather to the range of gold costs in the deck. For example, a hypothetical deck comprised of three cards—two 1-gold cost cards and a 4-gold card—would have the same average cost as a deck comprised of three 2-gold cards. However, the cost curve of the former deck would vary while the curve of the latter deck would be flat. (Given Thrones’ use of gold to pay costs, this is also referred to as the “gold curve.”) The reason cost curve is significant, and we cannot simply look at average card cost, has to do with how collectible card games tend to build over time. The longer the game runs, typically the more capable a player is to marshal more expensive, and typically more powerful, cards as that player has more resources later in the game. While Thrones’ unique plot-gold mechanic arguably makes the gold curve less important than other games such as Magic the Gathering, since a player can marshal expensive characters from the very beginning of the game, Thrones’ setup phase creates an incentive for multi-card setups. In short, and while there are exceptions based on deck archetypes, a player typically wants to play less expensive cards early in the game, and more expensive cards later. As someone who learns best visually, I find the prevailing Thrones deck building sites (agotcards and CardGameDB) a bit challenging to use. They are useful for sharing lists among players, and the user-interfaces are generally simple and easy to use. However, current sites are generally not designed to provide the type of analytical information at a glance that would be useful to me. I realize this is a subjective criticism, and as a free-to-use tool, I do not mean to sound at all unappreciative—both sites are fantastic, and I use them frequently for other purposes beyond deck building. But I do want to draw a distinction between online “deck builders” and the in-person deck building experience, because I believe that even while technology grows, there’s a space and a reason for in-person deck building. The Optimal Triangle-Shaped Curve For me, the deck building process begins and ends with a deck “break down” (though there are, of course, a lot of steps I take in the middle). To break down a deck, I arrange the cards by order of card type, and then cost (see image below). Within each category, cards with identical titles are grouped together. The least expensive (in terms of gold cost) cards are placed on the left, with each new cost in a separate column. Importantly, non-setup cards such as events (and attachments in 1.0) are placed to the far right so they are not confused with the low-cost cards, which are critical for good setups. And here’s what it looks like when the card types are combined to emphasize the focus on cost. I realize it's difficult to make out each card, but note the triangle-shape of the overall deck, excluding plots and non-setup cards, which should be kept to no more than 14 (ideally closer to 10-12). More powerful characters at higher costs should be significantly outnumbered by less powerful (and sometimes even less efficient) characters at lower costs. It can be a difficult tradeoff for a player to make, because it means lowering the overall power level of the deck. Nevertheless, establishing a dominant position early requires making such a tradeoff; “early game cards” allow for a stronger early board position and create momentum that can carry into the late game. The longer the game runs, the more opportunity one has to draw a specific card, so each deck will typically need many “early game” cards and fewer “late game” cards. (Of course, cards that scale well early and late game, such as inexpensive draw effects, are especially powerful.) Exceptions to the Triangle Rule Certain deck types may disregard some aspects of the above approach, or ignore it altogether. This currently applies in Thrones 1.0 to decks that run agendas such as The Maester’s Path and Knights of the Hollow Hill (KotHH), and even House of Dreams falls into this category to some degree. In decks that run these agendas, cost curve is still important, but tends to be treated a little differently. A few examples include the pre-errata Bloodthirst decks as well as the King Viserys all-attachment deck that made an appearance at GenCon this year. Such builds tend to take an all-or-nothing approach and thus rely on a specific combination of cards to achieve victory. For example, Noble Cause provides such a powerful boon to 2-gold characters that there is an incentive to increase the percentage of such characters in a deck. In this case, the average cost can still be maintained by also reducing the number of characters that cost 3 gold and above. It’s worth noting, however, that such a cost curve has significant disadvantages—a flatter curve can result in a weaker board position early or late game. In the case of Noble Cause, typically the late game is weak because high-gold (stronger) characters have been replaced with lower gold characters to keep the average cost down; however, a Noble Cause deck can suffer from a poor early game as well due to a poor setup of only 2-3 cards (as opposed to the average competitive 1.0 deck that will have a 4-5 card setup), given the fewer number of 0- and 1-gold characters in a Noble Cause deck. As players explore a Game of Thrones 2.0, I hope that the above tips will help them, as well as others looking to get a better handle on deck building essentials. I have found deck break downs to be critical to my success as a player. I hope others find it useful as well.Well developed for 1.0, it can really help the transition into the new edition of the game. Oh, and proxies FTW! If one builds as I do and aims for an overall efficient build (referencing my previous article here), rather than going for uber Tywin or whatever (which is more like combo, and thus less affected by gold curve), then curve is definitely extremely important. As for combining piles, I don't see much value there, but could be convinced otherwise. Is there a compelling reason to combine them? Unless you're playing Greyjoy and have access to Iron Fleet Scout, you cannot have more than 6 0-cost cards that can be set up, 9 with a Banner to not-Night's Watch (and technically 12 if you run Noble Lineage, but I'm assuming you aren't). Likewise your 1-cost options are in most factions limited to The Kingsroad, your reducer, maybe your in-faction attachment. It's not until you get to the 2-cost mark where there starts being a significant amount of options.Still, the closer a player can get to a triangle shape, the more consistent the deck will feel. The three decks I have built for 2.0 more or less follow this approach, though as you point out low gold options are few, so the overall curve is a little higher than I'd like (though I've mostly kept the average cost down). For banner decks, it's a little easier. My NW build, which admittedly may be an awful deck, comes pretty close with nine 1-gold cards, and fewer of each cost as it scales up. Currently trying five 5-gold characters, three 6-gold, and no 7-gold characters. We'll see how it plays (probably not strong enough, but the setups and overall curve do feel good). But fundamentally 1.0 and 2.0 are still the same game, so as we have more card options (and especially as we have more 2-claim plot options), I predict we'll see cost curves that begin to look more like 1.0 decks. It might be take 6 months of chapter packs before we have enough cards to do that though. Great article. I'm a brand new Thrones player (new to LCGs actually) and your points are helping me figure out how to deck build effectively. Can't wait to actually play the game soon! Heck even the size of the box may turn CCG players off, but in actuality it shares many aspects of other card games which makes for an easy learning experience. Even people who are experiencing this game as their first introduction to CCGs will find it easy to pick up after only a few rounds. Lets dive in! It is called a Living Card Game that is customizable through deck building and tuning like a CCG, but there are no rarities to the cards and you can purchase a whole set in one box. If you are like me and have this immediate thought, stop. Any sets sold outside of the core box are grossly overpowered by comparison. When you add another house that house will dominate every game. In order to bring them all to balance you would have to order a new set for every house which will take some time and cash. If you can handle having only the starting houses until then the game is very balanced and fair with the included houses. They list the turn order, which is very helpful during your first few games. But before we get into the turn order let's talk a little bit about the houses themselves. Each of the 4 has a certain theme in its mechanics. Understanding that theme will help you decide which house to play as well as give you a general idea on how each card works with the deck. Each of the wolves acts like an accessory. When attached to the proper Stark they gift bonuses. These wolves can be played alone and then attached when the owning Stark comes into play. The reason I counted Ned Stark as a defining mechanic in the Starks deck is because of his ability. Ned is meant to die. He dies in the book and he's died on TV and so Fantasy Flight made sure he would die in the Card Game. What's neat is that as the person playing the Stark House you want him to die as well. When Ned dies he is placed back into the draw deck to be rebirthed like some kind of winter phoenix. Getting the other players to constantly kill Ned is a great strategy and an easy one. Gold, being the resource most things cost, is almost always available. Players of the Lannisters will near always have more cash then other Houses. Even the head of the house Tywin, acts as a bank and protector of extra income. A strategy I employ is to sacrifice all other warriors to keep Tywin and Jamie alive. There are other cards of note in the house but those two cards work very well together as one provides an intimidating protector of your house's wealth, while the other is the Lannister's strongest warrior. From knights who do not exhaust after an attack to characters who, when killed, unexhaust other characters in this house, if played right, is never undefended. They also have an amazing Plot card (explained later) that allows them to go through any other player's deck and take a single card. This means the Baratheons can essentially take a signature element from the other houses, it's an amazing card and it's usually the first Plot card played by the house. Getting any of the three dragons out is a definite power switch. They are powerful creatures, each with unique bonuses either for themselves or for the rest of your army. Most of this army is made to be tossed away. The Targaryen house is best played in a reckless fashion. Do not be afraid to throw away troops as a means to keep your dragons or Lords alive. There are really 3 mini-games at work here. One is the game of each house's army. This is a fairly straightforward card game. Each character card has 1 to 3 colored spheres on their bottom left with a number in a shield above them. Each color represents 1 of 3 different types of attack and the number is how powerful they are with it. Not all cards are able to attack with all three types and some can't attack at all and are just defenders or enhancers for other army characters. There are more than a few similarities to MAGIC with the cards. Like being exhausted (called Kneeling in this game) after an attack.These add both a Rock Paper Scissors element while the Plot cards add a bit of the deception and tactics found so prevalently in the Game of Thrones Universe. It's knowing when the hurt you cause yourself will hurt the other players more that is the key. The Lannisters have a Plot Card that kills every character in game. Which is harsh, but playing it when another player has just used his best Plot card and all his gold to bring out his best characters could make it worth it. A player has access to all of their Plot cards all the time. Unlike the normal deck which is shuffled and random. A player can choose when to play each of their Plot cards. These add a very neat element of strategy as you all flip them over and see which Plots players are using. After a few games you will quickly start wondering in your head when a certain player will play a specific plot card. It is true, they are like playing Rock Paper Scissors. But imagine playing with 3 opponents and having to say aloud what you will being throwing before you count to three. Each player chooses a title that conveys a benefit, one lets you draw an extra card on your turn and another gives you extra gold. But each one also sets a rule that you cannot attack a player with a certain title and that you want to help a different player with a different title. This creates an interesting mix each turn as people try and safeguard themselves from other players while still picking a title that gives them the benefits they want. Location cards, which are permanent places that bestow benefits to the controlling players each turn. And event cards, which are one time use cards that are instant actions. These cards add flavor to the houses but also have direct comparisons to types found in Magic the Gathering and other Collectable Card Games. There are a number of ways to gain power (Such as letting Ned die!) but the most common 2 are. A) To have the most Standing (Untapped) characters at the end of the round. And B) To attack using the a character's Power (Blue circle with a crown inside) attack which if successful will steal a power from the attacked player. The game can take anywhere from an hour to several depending on the strategies employed.