bp solar gcr 3000 m manual

bp solar gcr 3000 m manual

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bp solar gcr 3000 m manualDiscover everything Scribd has to offer, including books and audiobooks from major publishers. Start Free Trial Cancel anytime. Report this Document Download Now save Save Aust Ps Solar GCR For Later 0 ratings 0 found this document useful (0 votes) 210 views 2 pages Aust Ps Solar GCR Uploaded by CactuSound CactusRecords Description: Regulador Solar Full description save Save Aust Ps Solar GCR For Later 0 0 found this document useful, Mark this document as useful 0 0 found this document not useful, Mark this document as not useful Embed Share Print Download Now Jump to Page You are on page 1 of 2 Search inside document Browse Books Site Directory Site Language: English Change Language English Change Language. Therefore, work. GCR 800. GCR 800M. GCR 1200. GCR 1200M. GCR 2000. I have searched for hours after The manual for The bp solar panel gcr 800. Does anyone know what the LBG means on a BP charge regulator. On the readout. Its a BP GCR 1200 M. Have tried. it helps Dave Brochure.pdf. GCR 800M. GCR 1200. GCR 1200M. GCR 2000. I have searched for hours after The manual for The bp solar panel gcr 800. Models: 10 Amps. Bp were also recorded and these are possibly linked to the lia suggesting a hemisphere wide forcing mechanism for this event.. Solar charge controller gcr 500.I have searched for hours after The manual for The bp solar panel gcr 800. I have The solar panel and The (not very sophisticated) control. The BP Solar GCR range of regulators are one of the most sophisticated solar. GCR-800(m) GCR-1200(m) GCR-2000(m) GCR-3000(m). Max. charge current. bp solar gcr 1200 manualfangpusun solar charge controller. bp solar. (BP Solar GCR M1200). To use the electricity. The instructions and buttons for turning the fridge on are in the flap at the very bottom front. In summer have it on. Again, the system: 2X80 Sharp solar panels, BP (Steca) GCR 2000 regulator. Measured voltage at solar input to regulator:.69-.74 volts.http://imotrading.com/images/userfiles/carica-automatica-o-manuale.xml

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to a flashing red state and this, according to the manual, means that the load has. The BP Solar GCR range of solar charge controllers are one of the most sophisticated on the market today. The latest. manual load switch on the regulator. All system. GCR Model 800 1200 2000 3000 1000 M 1500 M 2000 M 3000 M. I have an old BP Solar regulator similar to the GCR one here but it also. Bp Solar Gcr 1200 Manual. BP GCR Range Range includes: GCR 800; GCR 1200; GCR 2000; GCR 3000. Hi All I have a Steca solar contoller in the van and yesterday.Hi to all Ive fitted a second hand solar set up to my camper.It came with a BP control unit BPS12RA20.If any one can tell me how to read the.Therefore, work. GCR 800. GCR 800M. GCR 1200. GCR 1200M. GCR 2000. I have searched for hours after The manual for The bp solar panel gcr 800. Hi All I have a Steca solar contoller in the van and yesterday.Hi to all Ive fitted a second hand solar set up to my camper.It came with a BP control unit BPS12RA20.If any one can tell me how to read the. ThreadID: 73718. Views: 13457. Replies: 2. FollowUps: 2 It shows how much power solar panels really produce, I have an old BP Solar regulator similar to the GCR one here but it also has a display panel where basic information. I am giving it to a friend but have misplaced the instruction book. I have scoured the web but can't find one online. Basically I want to change the setting for the type of battery. It is set for a lead acid battery and my friend has a sealed battery. Can anyone tell me how to do this - or better still copy a manual for one that you may have lying around. Cheers Steve That appears to be a rebranded steca according to this web site. Operating instructions are available for the Steca here:- Thanks for the response. You are looking at the GCR M version. Been there done that! The other one in that picture looks like a Steca Solarix. Steca Solarix link Hopefully that should get you where you want to be. Mainey...http://eco-regalos.com/userfiles/caritas-peacebuilding-manual.xml EOTopo is a whole of Australia topographic mapset. Designed to stimulate conversation about where you've travelled. Best Answer: Hey Robin, It's a little difficult to give an exact answer here without knowing the specs on the panels, 27 Feb 2018 Click to expand.That's frustrating that there's nowhere on the internet that has a manual for this unit or one of it's versions. I've had a little look The BP Solar GCR range of regulators are one of the most sophisticated solar GCR-800(m) GCR-1200(m) GCR-2000(m) GCR-3000(m). Max. charge current 20 Jan 2019 I have searched for hours after The manual for The bp solar panel gcr 800. I have The solar panel and The (not very sophisticated) control. 18 Jan 2010 According to the steca manual, this indicates a fault in the solar panels. Whilst there. When I left the boat yesterday, and when I arrived today, the status light was flashing red on on the regulator; I've since RTFM and know now this means low battery voltage, not solar fault. 130PM Measured battery voltage at regulator: 13.65 (this is not low!) Measured voltage at solar input to regulator:.69-.74 volts Disconnected and separated panels. Status light on regulator now green. When it has gone red, I reset it by disconnecting the load, pulling the fuse, and opening the circuit to the solar panels (effectively, what I did when I measured the output of the panels OC today.) Questions: Could the V readings of the solar input to the regulator be normal. It seems that the regulator sends the voltage off the panels toward zero as less charge is needed. Also it seems to me, except for the fault light that the measurements indicate everything is actually OK I've high quality 25 amp marine tinned wire throughout. I have soldered the ends of the wires where they go into a terminal block. Is this good practice. Your thoughts, gentlemen? Steve I am confused by the solar V.is this a reading from the regulator.http://ninethreefox.com/?q=node/14676 Also, i am not sure why your battery voltage would increase while the solar voltage drops. Is still think the regulator could have problems, unless its all fine and you're misreading something. When it comes to wiring, i am as dodgy as they come (for my own stuff) (see attached). Best to get an expert to do it if you have doubts. Max I think you will find that it's because it's a HYBRID regulator incorporating SHUNT and ???? technologies. I suspect that when the battery reaches Float-Status, the regulator is (Falsely) SHUNTING the INPUT, thus giving near zero voltage. ( My presumption - for what it's worth ) I see lots of voltage measurements, but no mention of the current flow at all, that would be useful to know for any diagnosis. Gordon Somehow the regulator is driving the solar panel voltage toward zero as charging requirement goes to zero and if the load current goes toward zero. I also think the fault light (battery voltage low) is a false indication; MAY be due to loose connection.In this order unless you suggest otherwise: 1. Across the OC solar panels in bright sun to test output. 2. In series on the positive lead of the solar panels and the input to the regulator 3. As above then start the fridge compressor 3. In series on the positive terminal between the regulator and the battery. 4. In series on the positive terminal between the regulator and the load. Do I assume you'll get notified when I post the results? Steve Wear protective goggles at the very least. Gordon How do you measure max output? Steve Maximum power from a panel is the combination of volts X amps that gives the highest value, it will be higher than your battery volts. Look up the specs for your panels and there should be a curve showing amps vs volts, with the maximum power point indicated on the curve, just before it curves steeply down at the high volts end. You cant easily measure that point without specialised equipment, but MPPT regulators aim to operate at that point.http://www.relais-saint-jean-hotel.com/images/c24-service-manual.pdf PWM regulators are not able to harness the maximum power available from a panel. Gordon On the load side I have an OzFridge eutectic refrigerator which draws about 6 amps per hour for about 4 hours per day. The problem I've had is that the information LED on Steca regulator regularly goes to a flashing red state and this, according to the manual, means that the load has been disconnected from the regulator due to low battery volts. Three weeks ago I disconnected every thing, checked all the connections and reset (all LED's flashing green) the system. Today, a bright sunny day at 2PM, when I got down to the boat, the information LED on the regulator was flashing red. Shortly after I arrived the fridge compressor turned on so obviously, the fridge was working and not disconnected from the load. It must be indicating 'something,' however the battery V is not low and the load is not disconnected. (I'm going to leave the system in this state for a period of time to test this.) Regarding the voltgage from the solar panels, I would appreciate comments from the experts but it seems that the regulator does something to reduce the voltage from the solar panels when doesn't need a charge. The fins on the back of the regulator were 37 degrees so it wasn't shunting current to ground. Any thoughts. NASA Human Research Program - How Astronauts are Affected by It seems that the regulator sends the voltage 7 Feb 2018 GCR 3000. f1. Bp Solar Gcr 2000M Manual. Also, what 24 Nov 2017 I am worried about my solar panel set up. They are connected to a BP Solar GCR 1000M 17 Nov 2018 Download youtube 320 kb. Download Pagalworld free bollywood mp3 songs, high quality ringtone, latest music online from Pagal World.manual load switch on the regulator. All system The BP Solar GCR range of solar charge controllers are one of the most sophisticated on the market today.https://constructionone.com.br/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1629ad4405c6d6---corolla-verso-repair-manual-pdf.pdf 19 Jan 2010 Again, the system: 2X80 Sharp solar panels, BP (Steca) GCR 2000 regulator, Measured voltage at solar input to regulator:.69-.74 volts. to a flashing red state and this, according to the manual, means that the load has Category BP GCR Range. BP GCR Range. BP GCR Range Range includes: GCR 800; GCR 1200; GCR 2000; GCR 3000. Bp Solar Gcr 800 I had a chance to do some more measurements today: Again, the system: 2X80 Sharp solar panels, BP (Steca) GCR 2000 regulator, 2X80AH Lifeline AGM batteries, OzeFridge refrigerator exclusively on load terminals of regulator. When I left the boat yesterday, and when I arrived today, the status light was flashing red on on the regulator; I've since RTFM and know now this means low battery voltage, not solar fault. 130PM Measured battery voltage at regulator: 13.65 (this is not low!) Measured voltage at solar input to regulator:.69.74 volts Disconnected and separated panels. Battery voltage and the voltage measured directly off the panels seems fine. I am confused by the solar V.is this a reading from the regulator. My understanding is the the amps would taper off as the battery reaches capacity, but the charge voltage has to remain above the battery voltage so it can 'push' the charge in. Bp Solar Gcr 800 Best to get an expert to do it if you have doubts. Max Attachments amateur wiring. I have a very strong feeling that the behaviour is normal. Somehow the regulator is driving the solar panel voltage toward zero as charging requirement goes to zero and if the load current goes toward zero. I also think the fault light (battery voltage low) is a false indication; MAY be due to loose connection. However, I cannot go offshore with ANY 'maybe' on solar plant. Sooooo: I'm going to get an amp meter to put into the circuit and do some tests. In this order unless you suggest otherwise: 1. Across the OC solar panels in bright sun to test output. In series on the positive lead of the solar panels and the input to the regulator 3.art-electric.com/userfiles/canon-l295-fax-manual.pdf As above then start the fridge compressor 3. In series on the positive terminal between the regulator and the battery. In series on the positive terminal between the regulator and the load. Do I assume you'll get notified when I post the results. Steve Solar Supporter Posts: 10 Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 3:16 pm. Short circut is a dead short across the output, voltage will be very low. Maximum power from a panel is the combination of volts X amps that gives the highest value, it will be higher than your battery volts. PWM regulators are not able to harness the maximum power available from a panel. My 'shipboard' system consists of two sharp 80W panels connected in parallel to a BP rebadged (Steca) regulator, charging two 80AH AGM batteries. On the load side I have an OzFridge eutectic refrigerator which draws about 6 amps per hour for about 4 hours per day. The battery level LED was flashing green indicating 'full battery.' I checked the fridge, and everything was cold. Before the compressor turned on I took the following measurements: 2PM Output from solar panels 2.4V (across the solar input terminals on the regulator) Battery Volts: 13.8V (across the batter terminals on the regulator) Load Volts: 13.7 V (across the 'load' terminals on the regulator i.e. The connection from the fridge) Unfortunately, I did not have time to check amperage before the compressor started running. Any thoughts? Solar Supporter Posts: 10 Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2010 3:16 pm. Would you like to try it too? Please try again later. Sorry for the inconvenience. It provides power for a remote astronomical observatory. Loads are light, but seeing most usage is at night, I'm wanting to augment input during the dark hours, so I've aquired a small windgen (Air-X 400 W). What is the best method to connect the windgen to my existing setup. Any tips, tricks, hints, dos-and-don'ts and HowTos would be most appreciated.http://julieesteban.com/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1629ad45000df8---Corolla-verso-manual-pdf.pdf As I understand it, I'll need a seperate regulator for the wingen to shunt output to a dummy load when necessary as the internal Air-X regulator won't do it. Correct? Can I then directly connect the new windgen regulator's output directly to the battery bank bus bars. I'm assuming I'll have to switch the GCR 3000M to voltage regulation instead of the default SOC method it uses out-of-the-box. Can I connect the new windgen to my PV system or will I have to have seperate bank for it. Thanks in advance for any help with this! Blah My site has excellent wind conditions which will suit the little Air-X quite well. I've read the criticisms of it previously but they usually come from people with the resources to purchase vastly more expensive machines than I can. I got a new Air-X very cheaply, so I can't complain. Thanks! Blah I don't live at the site and generally only run the telescope drives, a 12v mini-ITX based computer, and occasionally the red LED lighting. My loads are very low relative to my battery bank capacity. The PV array gets excellent insolation, with no shading other than night time darkness. It's a relatively high altitude site and usually above the clouds in this area. The windgen will hopefully permit me to use the gasoline-powered genset even less, as well as heat either air or water as a side benefit. Do you know if it's okay to connect the windgen output directly to the battery bank busbar (via an external shunt-type reg). Thanks guys, Blah IF the load is large enough. Like Kurt said, the Air-X is not likely to do a whole lot. The state put a bunch up along the highway. They don't even turn very often. Maybe the controller in the Steca voltage could be set a bit higher. Someone is sure to point out we have NO idea where this is. Mt. Everest? AZ? NM? NH? Africa? North Pole? We don't really care, but the guesses will be closer to answers. G- Wind is a feature of life on the site and so far the Air-X is doing fine.https://www.naturapreserved.com/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1629ad450e912e---corolla-verso-manual-download.pdf I have it test-mounted and it's putting out plenty of amps into a relatively small, temporary bank. I have a bunch of big resistors in the 0.8-2.0 Ohm range, so the dump load shouldn't be an issue. The Air-X was inexpensive and new, so it was affordable. (I got it from a boating friend who retired from sailing before he got the chance to install the windgen on his yacht.):-) As far as I know the solar reg voltage is fixed and not moddable. Thank you for answering my question!:-) By far the best thing to do is feed the panels and unregulated Airx directly to the batteries and obtain a charge controller that can be used in diversion mode. It will then handle the wind and solar properly and its charge algorithm will be correct for the batteries without being confused by 2 sources. Using mixed controllers is not ideal and I am not sure that your existing solar controller has ideal charge characteristics anyway. Flux It doesn't have a diversion control feature which is why I'm planning to obtain a diversion load controller for the windgen (which also doesn't have one built in). Or did you mean connect them via a new regulator. Your wording left me scratching my head a little, sorry. The vilified Air-X windgen has an integrated regulator, but it doesn't have a diversion load control facility, and I would rather let the windgen operate constantly, diverting the excess energy to a diversion load, rather than let the internal reg simply stop the turbine when it senses that the battery is fully charged. The GCR 3000M solar controller can be switched between State of Charge mode to Voltage Control mode. If it's in the latter, can I use the existing system correctly and safely, if the windgen output is connected directly to the battery bank (via an external diversion control regulator). My original concern was that having the windgen's output feeding directly into the battery bank (bypassing the PV reg) would cause the PV reg to not function correctly.www.argo-naut.com/userfiles/files/canon-l260i-manual.pdf Thanks for your reply and any further answers would be greatly appreciated!:-) Blah It simply gets rid of the 'extra'. Might look at a C60. Then connect the solar straight to the battery. Connect the unregulated Air-X straight to the battery. G- It does make sense to try to get the maximum out of the panels with mppt. I would imagine you would need to set the mppt controller volts high, add the wind directly to the battery and then use an extra diversion control, all complicated and expensive. I was just thinking of connecting the panels and wind direct and using a diversion controller. What I meant in the first case was that without a diversion controller you would keep your series switched controller for solar and to add the wind you would need to connect the AirX direct to the battery( it mustn't go via the solar controller, it will kill it ). To prevent the batteries being overcharged you would need to retain the AirX regulator. Not a perfect solution but it would work. I can see why you don't like the internal regulator in the AirX, because it reduces the power out of that machine as soon as it regulates, but I have a feeling that it does that to reduce speed and noise in high winds anyway ( not sure if you can over ride that speed limiting even if you set the regulator volts up). Unless you could use the heat from the diversion load then keeping the Air X regulator would only be an issue at times when things are fairly well charged anyway so it may still make sense. Flux It gets very cold up there. I was thinking it'd help keep the battery room at the right temperature. That heat couls also or alternatively be used to keep the water supply from freezing (tank and pipes, etc). From what you and others have said, I'll obtain a diversion load controller, probably a TriStar and hang it off the windgen, connecting the output directly to the battery bank busbar. Hopefully that'll work without causing too many problems, especially if the solar reg is set to a fixed voltage in voltage control mode. It'll be nice to know during the night that I'm charging the cells even as I'm using them.:-) Thanks for all the info, guys! My plan was to connect to wingen output to the bank via a seperate external diversion load controller. My fear was that it may not charge (from the PV array) properly, but I figure that if I switch the reg from SoC mode to Voltage Control mode (a fixed reg voltage) the reg would be able to handle a bank with a second charging source connected to it. The solar reg is not a diversion load controller type and the windgen's internal reg won't do that either (it'll just brake the blades if it senses the bank voltage as being charged). I have the Air-X connected to an old and small temporary bank which runs an inverter which I use for powering tools and a radio, etc, because I'm still in the construction phase. The load is pretty high, so the windgen is going continuously. I'm not certain what problems others had with the Air-X, but this one runs like a trooper, providing lots of amps even in quite light winds. The battery bank has never dropped very low and is charged up quickly again once I stop work. I'll obtain an external diversion load controller (a TriStar or Xantrex if I can get one cheap) and hang it off the Air-X. I'll use some 1 Ohm-ish resistors as the diversion load. I'll connect the controller output directly to the same battery master busbars the solar reg is connected to. Hopefully this won't be a problem. If necessary, I can always switch off the windgen until nightfall. If anybody is interested, I'll post the results here at a later date (once I have a diversion load controller to connect, etc.) Blah Dump power at the batts keeping the voltage down allowing the mill to keep turning The second option just seems wasteful - burning volts just to keep the charger going. And I'd never get any heat from the dummy loads!:-) If the mill is set to 16V, the solar has no controller, and the dump controller is set to 14V, the batteries will never get past 14V. The mill will keep going, the solar will keep charging, but the dump controller will keep bleeding it out to maintain the battery at 14V because that is what they do. G- The battery bank loads are very low. Even after a long winter's night of use I've barely taken anything out of them. When the sun comes up and the amps start flowing, won't I have an issue. The dump load kicks in once the diversion load controller senses the battery voltage is at the preset level (whatever it may be) while the windgen is still operating, thus preventing the cells from being overcharged, yes. If I mod the windgen charge voltage up to it's highest setting, won't that risk overcharging the cells, bearing in mind that there's never much of a load drawing them down most of the time. I don't have much of a problem keeping the cells topped up most of the time. What I'm really trying to achieve is gaining energy from the windgen in the form of heating which otherwise wouldn't be there because the windgen's internal reg would normally brake the blades once the normal preset battery voltage level was sensed. And I want to make sure I don't connect anything in such a way that the system is damaged, or becomes inefficient. Blah I can appreciate that the heat from the diversion controller will be of advantage at night and the solar will do nothing there. In this case I would not spend extra money on a mppt controller, at the present time there are none for wind. One good diversion controller will take care of everything, the solar can be connected direct to the battery and so can the wind ( either set the wind controller to it's highest setting or disable it in some way). If the solar gets the batteries well up during the day you will have the full wind capability at night and the benefit of any excess in the heater. Just to clarify one of your points, the AirX is fine, it is a high wind area machine and you have wind. The complaints come from people in low wind areas ( most of us), it does nothing in winds below 10mph. It works well on boats at sea and decent wind sites like yours, it is virtually useless on poor inland sites. Flux The cells I need are hell expensive and I can't afford to be cooking them. I'm not always at the site, sometimes for weeks if the snow is very heavy or the spring thaw turns the track to mudpies, so the risk is that the electrolyte could boil away before I discover it in time. If I had heavy loads constantly discharging the cells, I wouldn't be so concerned about overcharging, but at the moment the loads are so light that really I'm just keeping them in a float state much of the time. Without regulation, I can imagine the PV array doing some real harm. Hopefully I'll be able to get hold of an affordable diversion-load controller for the windgen and also keep charging the banks with the PV array via the 30 amp PWM reg for now. I expect that in the future my loads will increase but, if all goes according to my cunning plan, so will my budget and I'll be able to afford an MPPT controller. I just want to say thanks a lot to you guys for all the suggestions and help. It's much appreciated! Blah It will NEVER let your batteries become over charged. EVER. It uses the excess power from BOTH charging sources meaning there is no extra power available to over charge the batteries. If you are unhappy then it is perfectly ok to leave the solar series controller and let the diversion controller only take care of the wind. In that case the dump load could be smaller but it may still be wise to rate it for the total input as a precaution. The main objection to using multiple controllers is that no one controller can decide on the exact charging parameters. The existing solar thing may not be very sophisticated in this respect and it may not let a decent high quality diversion regulator charge batteries to best advantage, but using both is still possible. Leaving things unattended for long periods is rather more worrying than schemes that are monitored daily, but there are remote telemetry and other things that fall into this category and they survive. Just make sure you are sized for more than the total system can produce. Flux PV is my primary source, and I trust my MorningStar controller to do relatively clever battery management. Wind is a secondary source and only a little extra power. I'm just going to use a crowbar overvoltage circuit to short out the wind turbine upstream of a diode to the battery when the battery appears to be charged. I am considering putting in another set at a slightly lower voltage to to dump into some 1Ohm loads. You could use this stage to dump into your heating elements. Ignoring the dump resistors, each stage takes 4 components and should handle much more power than my turbine can ever generate with ease. If the wind starts to produce a bigger slice of the power then I have GHurd's dump-controller kit to hand to give me more finesse. I expect my system to remain essentially entirely maintenance free. Rgds Damon When the bank is full,(as set by the dump control voltage setting), and extra power is going into the bank the dump controller starts to dump this extra power to the heating elements. What ever source this power is coming from, PV or wind, all extra power is drained off the bank not sent some place else, the power still goes into the batteries but the dump is drawing off the bank to keep them from overcharging. I hope you can understand how it works. (I hope I drew it out right). Solar modules generate power from light incidence. Even. The BP Solar GCR range of regulators are one of the most sophisticated solar. GCR-800(m) GCR-1200(m) GCR-2000(m) GCR-3000(m). Max. charge current. 27 Aug 2011. Its a BP GCR 1200 M. Have tried. Brochure.pdf. John Funster 16. (BP Solar GCR M1200). Solar Charge. d65d7be546. All system GCR Model. 800. 1200. 2000. 3000. 1000 M. 1500 M. 2000 M. 3000 M. 1.2 General Safety Instructions. 3. 1.3 Scope of Application. 4. 1.4 Liability Disclaimer. 5. 2. Installation. 5. 2.1 Installation Site. 5. 2.2 Connecting the Regulator. 6. Operating instructions. Solar Charge Controller. Alguien sabe de reparar este regulador o donde comprar uno similar. Gracias y saludos. Handbook 80, A Manual of Radioactivity Proce. Available from the National Technical Information Service; use 'PB', 'COM' or NBS publication. Electrical resistivity of alkaline earth elements, T. 2, 439-498 (1979). Key words: alkaline earth elements. 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