Bottle Jack Repair Manual
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Bottle Jack Repair ManualProblems with bottle jacks mostly stem from broken or damaged seals, so sometimes replacing the seals will help. You can also rebuild a jack to extend its usable life. Watch out, though: jacks are relatively cheap and sometimes a rebuild kit can cost more than a replacement jack. Step 1 Remove the oil reservoir plug from the jack and drain the oil into a pan. Unbolt the handle assembly and remove it, then pull out the pumping piston attached to the handle. This can be done by hand once the oil is removed, although you may have to put the jack in a vice. Step 2 Remove the release valve by unscrewing it fully. Check underneath for a ball or pin used to regulate the flow. Remove this using the pencil magnet. Step 3 Remove the overload valve. This is usually a screw close to the release valve. Remove the screw and inside you will find two balls and two springs, although there may be extra dividers and plates in there as well. Make a note of the order in which they come out so you can replace them in the same order later. Step 4 Use the pipe wrench to remove the tank nut on the top of the canister. Once this has been removed, the piston will come loose and you will be able to pull apart the piston into its component parts. Most of them are slid inside each other, so make a note of which goes inside which. Step 5 Replace the o-rings and washers with those from the rebuild kit or those you have separately. When prying off the o-rings, work on the side away from the sealing surface to prevent damage to the surface itself. It will help with the seal if you soak the o-rings and washers in hydraulic fluid before putting them in place. Step 6 Slide the parts of the piston back one inside the other and replace it inside the canister. Tighten the tank nut to hold everything in place. Step 7 Replace the balls and springs inside the overload valve. Usually the smallest ball will go in first, followed by the smaller spring and then the larger ball and larger spring.http://www.innovatecnologias.cl/imagesContent/boyu-efu-25-manual.xml
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If you have extra plates or dividers then refer to the notes you took as you were removing them. Step 8 Replace the ball or pin in the release valve. This is usually just a case of dropping it back in to position. Replace the bolt on top. Step 9 Refill the jack with hydraulic oil and bleed air from the system. Bleed the air by opening the release valve and pumping the handle vigorously several times. Then close the valve, pump the jack to its full height, open the valve and let it back down. Repeat this until the jack extends all the way. Wipe down the jack and then use it to raise and lower a vehicle. Check around the jack for any evidence of fluid on the outside that may indicate a leak. If there is a leak, then there may be an improperly installed seal. Tips Work in a clean dry area. If any dirt or grit gets into the jack, it will cause it to fail. Dispose of the old hydraulic oil at a local oil dump site. Never throw old oil on the ground. Before purchasing the rebuild kit, check the price of a new jack; sometimes the new jack is cheaper than the rebuild kit. Warnings Never work under a car supported by a jack alone. Hydraulic fluid is flammable. Keep it away from flames. Items you will need Wrench set Screwdriver set Pencil magnet Pipe wrench Rebuild kit or replacement seals and o-rings Cloth Hydraulic oil References The Garage Journal: Overseas Jack Rebuild Help Tutorial Hyjacks: Various pages About the Author This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us. Photo Credits fallen jack stand image by Joyce Wilkes from Fotolia.com More Articles How to Repair My Trailer Jack How to Refill the Oil in a Bottle Jack How to Fill a Craftsman 3-Ton Hydraulic. How to Fix Hydraulic Jacks That Leak.http://www.caritas.nidzica24.pl/userfiles/bp-1200-manual.xml I am enjoying posting things I have learned and done since I got my first.It began to leak down a little a few months ago. The lift arm no longer rises when the handle is pumped up and down. (I was able to pull the lift arm up by hand and it settled slowly enough that I could make a photo with the arm partially raised.) I checked to be sure it was adequately filled with fluid, but that was not the problem. A few months before this problem, there were bubbles coming up through the vents at the filler plug. At that time I raised the lift arm with the handle, released the jack's valve, and let the arm fall slowly several times to purge air from the system. Finally, one day, the lift arm would not rise at all. If filling with fluid and purging air from the system do not restore function, there is probably internal leakage, even though fluid is not leaking from the jack. From what I have read, forty years of service is a reasonable time for a hydraulic jack to operate before it needs a rebuild. A word of caution: Rebuilding this jack presented several challenges that seemed almost insurmountable at the occurrence of each. Further, I had to make several special tools to get the job done. If you want to attempt rebuilding a jack and you are not a member of Instructables, I would encourage you to pick a password and a screenname, and join. Doing that will allow you to download a PDF of this Instructable for printing, or to view at any time later on your computer, assuming you wish to consult what I have done as a guide. When putting fluid into a jack never use anything other than hydraulic jack fluid. Do not use motor oil or brake fluid. Brake fluid makes the seals swell. At this link you will find one man's description of how he rejuvenated his twenty-five year old jack by flushing its insides with a solvent, letting it dry completely, and filling it with fresh hydraulic jack fluid. It could be worth a try.http://www.drupalitalia.org/node/72909 I did find one manual for a floor jack that said the fluid should be changed every year. The procedure is to place the jack over a large pan, remove the filler plug, turn the jack on its side and let it drain. Then fill it again. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 1: Parts Kit Several firms sell rebuild kits for hydraulic jacks. I found Blackhawk Parts and ordered parts on-line. My jack came with the Fleet brand name. It was sold through NAPA Auto Parts. It should have been easy to find my jack among the listings for Fleet jacks on the Blackhawk Parts web page and order the appropriate rebuild kit, but it was not. So, I sent an e-mail to Blackhawk Parts with the name of the manufacturer and the model number. It is good that I did. Although my jack has the Fleet name, it was actually made by someone else. That is a fairly typical price for a rebuild kit. The photo shows the parts kit I received. Some are of neoprene molded to special shapes. There are also some steel balls and copper washers. I decided not to open the parts kit until I was certain the parts it contains match what I see on my jack as I dismantle it. I will have less difficulty exchanging an unopened parts kit than I would have trying to exchange a kit I had opened, in case the wrong one was shipped to me. In the photo you can also see the paperwork that came with the parts kit. It will help, too, if an exchange were necessary. And, I do not want to risk losing any parts by opening the bag early and having something roll out. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 2: Helps and Guidance The rebuild kit does not include any instructions. The Blackhawk Parts web page offers a few cautionary and a few safety notes, but no helps on the rebuild procedure for the Saturday mechanic.There is a very helpful link at the e-How page that takes you to a set of photos and some useful notes on critical stages for doing work on a low price imported hydraulic floor jack.http://d-frax.com/images/bottle-capping-machine-manual.pdf Some of these things would be very helpful for the proper assembly, too. Floor jacks are remarkably similar, despite small differences. See the next step for information on helpful videos on-line. The graphic for this step is an exploded diagram of a hydraulic jack and a list of parts. This one is from a Harbor Freight jack. Diagrams like this one are easy to find on the Internet. You can enlarge images in your browser to see more detail, or save them in PDF and do the same. But, if you are able to watch the videos linked in step 3, you will see how the parts fit together, too. (The day may come when those videos are no longer available on the Internet.) Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 3: Videos There are many videos related to hydraulic jacks at YouTube, but most of those are not really very helpful for a rebuild, even though their titles are enticing. A floor jack is a really a bottle jack laid over onto its side and installed inside a frame equipped with casters, a handle, and a lift arm. This video shows how to remove the bottle jack unit from the frame. The floor jack in the video is my Fleet jack with a different name and paint color on it. Some jacks are the least bit different. You may also want to view this video. If you do not want to rebuild the bottle jack unit yourself, you can use either of these videos to remove the bottle jack unit from the frame of the jack and simply take it to a repair shop near you. The e-How article linked in step 2 contains a word of caution. If your jack is a cheap import, it may not be worth a rebuild. The machining is not always as good as on the older models made in the USA. Further, the correct parts kit may be impossible to get. You may find it more economical simply to buy a new jack. Classic jacks made in the USA are generally considered worth the expense and effort of a rebuild. This is a another video that shows how to dismantle a bottle jack unit. There are some good clues in the video for reassembly.http://www.nbrownies.com.br/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1627462e350e6f---brother-6490cw-service-manual.pdf Videos sometimes disappear from the Internet. Although it may seem redundant, I will also document all steps in this Instructable with photos and text so that anyone using it in the future will have all needed information, even if some of the better videos disappear one day. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 4: Open the Jack Frame First photo-- The halves of the jack frame will need to be spread to get the bottle jack unit out for repair. Loosen the nuts on the axle for the lift arm considerably, but do not remove them. There is one on each side of the jack frame. Second photo-- Two bolts on each side hold the body of the bottle jack unit to the frame. Remove all four. (One is partially backed out already.) Although the man in the video from step 3 removed the casters, that is not really necessary to access the bolts on this jack. I did fine without removing the casters. Third photo-- Spread the frame members to remove the handle and its yoke casting. I had to wrestle with this a little and take it in steps. That meant spreading the frame from one side and then the other back and forth until the yoke's pins are free of the frame. Fourth photo --A universal joint twists to open and close the release valve. The upper end of the universal joint is a piece of hex stock. It fits into a hex socket in the bottom of the handle. Fifth photo --Lift the jack frame and the bottle jack unit remains on the work surface, even though attached to the lift arm by hinged extensions. Use a pair of pliers to remove the end of the return spring from the pin. Sixth photo-- The rams from the jacks shown in the videos attach to the frame with a cotter pin. On this jack a pin both holds the end of the spring and secures the block in the photo to the top end of the ram. Flip the bottle jack unit over and drive the pin most of the way out with a hammer and a punch.AYHANCEVIK.COM/images_upload/files/community-mental-health-center-services-manual.pdf Seventh photo --This photo gives a view of how the parts are made to hold the ram in the block with the pin that also serves to retain the upper end of the return spring. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 5: Drain the Jack Oil Place the bottle jack unit into a pan and drain the oil as best you can. On the bottle jack unit in one of the videos it was easy to work the plunger in order to extract more of the oil. The spring on the plunger is too strong for that on this jack. Be aware that additional oil will pour out of the jack in coming steps. Have a pan or newspaper available to catch it and minimize the mess. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 6: Open the Bottle Jack Unit The first photo shows the ram and ram nut (or tank nut, also top nut) at the end of the bottle jack. Most ram nuts are hexagonal. This one has two slots for a special spanner wrench. In the video from step 3 showing a man taking the ram nut off of a bottle jack, the ram nut came loose quite easily. On my jack the nut was stuck on very hard. I placed the bottle jack unit into my vise and tried to loosen the ram nut with a very large pipe wrench. I only did a little cosmetic damage to the nut. It would not loosen. I soon realized that my workbench and vise were not equal to the task, either. Second photo-- I decided to make a special tool. Unfortunately for those without welders, making that tool required welding. The third photo shows the tool in use. Check the yellow text boxes. My vise did not have enough leverage to hold the bottle jack unit, so I bolted it upright into the jack frame and used the jack frame as my own long bar for leverage. In order to make that work, I planted my foot against the end of the frame that is not shown in the photo. I had to strike very hard with a 16 ounce ball peen hammer, but after about five or six strikes, the ram nut began to move. My tool worked and I was able to loosen the ram nut with the ram for removal from the bottle jack unit.https://clearlakesd.org/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1627462f31d1ab---brother-634d-serger-manual.pdf Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 7: Further Disassembly First photo-- Unscrew the ram nut until it and the ram can be pulled from the bottle jack unit. The ram nut simply pulls off of the top end of the ram. The outer shell of the oil tank appears to be securely fastened to the base of the bottle jack unit, but it is not. Press against its side and it tips off to one side immediately. There will be some oil that runs out onto the work surface. Put down some newspaper or a pan to catch it. Second photo --Pull the wire mesh oil filter from the iron base and set it aside where it cannot be harmed. Third photo --Unscrew the universal joint assembly for the release valve. Insert a magnetic tool and pull out the cone-shaped plug. The hole from which it came is visible behind the magnet tool. Fourth photo-- Place the bottle jack unit in a vise and use a wrench to remove the plunger mechanism. I had to tap on the end of the wrench with a hammer to loosen it. On my jack a 1 inch wrench was required. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 8: Safety Overload and Check Valves Move your cursor over the text boxes in the first photo.The cylinder would normally be removed for a rebuild. But, this one is stuck very tightly. Remember how much difficulty there was in removing the ram nut in step 6. It screws to the cylinder, so the cylinder should be difficult to remove, too. It is not as easy as the video linked in step 3. I tried, but could not get it to loosen. Removing it does not give access to any removable parts. I did notice some oil at the bottom of the cylinder appears dirty. There are two metal plugs in the body of the bottle jack unit. Two large screws are below them. See the text boxes again. This site warns NEVER EVER to open these. It also has a diagram of what is inside. (Scroll down to the middle of the web page.) The author's concern is that the small balls in the valves can be lost, and the jack would become useless.https://www.lipfish.no/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1627462fedf9b1---brother-640d-overlocker-manual.pdf Get a shallow cardboard box with no holes in the bottom or a large pan and work inside of either one. If any balls roll away, they will be contained inside the box or the pan. Also, extra balls are included in my kit. Even if the balls were not included in the kit, precision steel balls can be purchased at a bicycle shop in a series of sizes. Check the link in this paragraph for the sizes normally used. I want to do as complete a rebuild as possible. Dirt may have found its way into the passageways where the balls are. The balls could also have rough surfaces through years of use. If I turn the jack body back and forth I can hear metal balls rolling inside passageways. I drilled a hole in the center of each of the metal plugs. Then I inserted a slightly larger sheet metal screw into the hole until the threads bound against the hole I drilled. I placed a pair of pliers under the head of the screw and pounded against the pliers with a hammer to pull the metal plug out of the jack's body. I repeated the process with the other plug. New plugs are included in the parts kit. The second photo shows the bottle jack unit's body, but inverted so it was easier to hold while operating the camera. The metal plugs have been removed. Both holes have a large screw inside them. The one on the right is recessed so far that it is not visible. It is the safety overload valve. This valve protects the jack's seals from failing under a load heavier than the jack's rating. When the safe range of the jack is exceeded, the safety overload valve opens like a pressure regulator to allow oil to return to the tank rather than entering the chamber for the ram. This screw has to be set so the safe level of pressure is not exceeded. In order to do that at home, I carefully turned this screw and counted by half-turns until it bottomed out. The safety overload valve should then be set very close to the original factory calibration.AYBAR-GALLERY.COM/userfiles/files/compaq-presario-cq60-615dx-notebook-pc-manual.pdf One author noted that some jacks fail because the safety overload screw unscrews itself, which sets the jack's lifting ability to a much lower threshold, and the arm may not lift what you want to jack. I found this screw turned with enough resistance that it is not likely to shift its position by itself. That same author also said most safety overload screws are about two turns looser than the bottoming out point. The third photo shows the parts for the safety overload valve in the order in which they are inserted. A new ball is included in the parts kit. The fourth photo shows another special tool I made. The screw for the check valves is quite tight. The blade on the screwdriver broke. Near the end I ground the diameter down until it fit nicely inside the recess for the screw. I kept a cup of cold water near my grinding wheel to avoid softening the bolt with heat. I ground a rough profile by sight. I moved the bolt to a vise and finished cutting the profile of the screw slot by means of a hand file. I checked the dimensions with a digital caliper. When my improvised screwdriver fit the screw and its slot, I tapped on the bolt's head to be certain it had fully seated in the slot. I used a wrench on the bolt head and the screw came out with no difficulty, at all. I had tried to buy a large screwdriver, but could find none this large. The fifth photo shows what was behind the check valve screw. See the text boxes for ball sizes. Care must also be taken not to scratch the machined end near the threaded end of the plunger body. This smooth end is the only seal. See the text boxes on the first photo. I dismantled the plunger because I was not certain if it would fly apart when I removed the nut from the threaded pin in the second photo. I could probably have removed the old seal without dismantling the plunger, but the threaded pin, nut, washer, and seal would have been retracted about 1 inch into the plunger body, and it would have been difficult to pry the seal out of the plunger body without compressing the spring in the plunger. I made a special tool for assembling the plunger body again. See it and how it is used in the second and third photos at step 10. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 10: Clean the Bottle Jack Unit's Passageways The first photo shows a paper towel I pressed into the cylinder and rotated with a screwdriver without letting the screwdriver touch the sides of the cylinder. (Be careful not to scratch the inside of the cylinder. The towel shows how much dirt was in my jack's oil. In addition to sopping up some dirty oil still in the cylinder, I poured a little clean jack oil into the openings and passageways. Most of it collected in the opening for the plunger. At first this oil was cloudy. After a few tries, it was clear. I think this should adequately clean the jack so that it can be reassembled. Inspect the seats in the bottle jack unit's body for signs of rust and pitting. The seats need to be clean and smooth. When I let sunlight shine into the recesses where there are seats, I saw more dirt. I used a wooden dowel rod to scrape and break loose any dirt I could find. I poured some jack oil into the holes to flush the dirt away. Second photo --Clean the groove that receives the tank's outer shell. It has some brown dried oil residue. Something brass would be ideal. It would be tough enough to remove the residue, but would not scratch the machined surface. Someone said jack oil is a vegetable oil. The oil residue is certainly like what I have seen in the kitchen from vegetable oils. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 11: Assemble the Plunger I kept the bag of parts inside the same shallow pan in which I assembled the bottle jack unit. This is so I am less likely to lose parts, especially the steel balls. First photo --This shows the plunger body and the plunger parts. At the left three leather seals are shown. My jack does not use these. Several different parts came in more than one version. I think the same parts kit is sold for several similar, but different jacks. I have some parts I will not use on my jack. In the center area of the parts are the steel washer and the locking nut. The other two parts at the right are the old seal I removed. It has an oily sheen. Just below it is the replacement part my jack requires. Second photo-- Coat the new neoprene seal with fresh jack oil. During the installation of all parts, double check for any grit or dirt sticking to the oily parts and remove it before the installation of that part. Install the new neoprene seal, rounded end first. Install the steel washer and the locking nut. I will discuss how tight to tighten the locking nut after treating how to install the spring assembly onto the plunger body. I made a special tool for putting the plunger assembly back together. The wire came from stubs of concrete reinforcement wire broken off from a friend's foundation for his new garage. The third photo shows how this special tool is used. I chucked this tool in my small drill press. The circle of wire at the end of the tool fits over the top of the cap for the plunger assembly. Notice that the bottom end of the plunger body presses against wood so the smooth machined surface is not scratched. My drill press has limited adjustment. I used a couple of pieces of wood on the drill's base in order to achieve the desired distance between the chuck and the surface supporting the smooth end of the plunger. Now tighten the locking nut (mentioned in connection with the first photo ) in steps. Push the plunger down and let the spring cause it to return. Tighten the nut more and more until the plunger appears it may become sluggish to return. Back the nut off just a little. Check the plunger for dust and particles of wood. Thread the plunger into the base of the bottle jack unit. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 12: The Release Valve First photo --I have a dental pick I can use to remove old seals. Coat it with jack oil. Second photo --Install the conical metal seal in the hole for the release valve. The pointed end goes in first. Tamp on it with a small screwdriver to make sure it seats at the bottom of the hole. Thread the release valve into the hole. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 13: Check Valves and Safety Overload Valve First photo --The hole for the check valves has a copper sealing washer inside it. The old washer is barely visible in the hole. Note its color. A new copper washer is supplied in the parts kit. The old washer has compressed to fit very tightly. There is no good way to remove it. I did not want to fill the passageways in my jack with copper shavings from digging it out in pieces. I decided simply to place the new washer on top of what is left of the old washer. (This photo was made before the plunger and the release valve were installed.) Second photo --Install the parts in the order shown in this photo from step 8. (The release valve and the plunger are not shown in this photo.) Use the new balls from the parts kit. Do all of this inside a pan or shallow cardboard box so none of the balls are lost if one gets away from you. Tamp the parts down with a small screwdriver so they settle down as far as possible in their hole. Carefully start the screw plug with a screwdriver. It is easy to crossthread. Use the special screwdriver made from a hardened bolt to tighten the screw plug with a wrench. Third photo --Install the parts shown in this photo from step 8. Drop the new ball into the hole. Insert the spring into the open end of the cap and drop both into the hole. Insert the screw plug. Carefully turn the screw plug until the valve assembly bottoms out. I chose not to install the metal plugs that close the valve holes yet in case I would need to open one of the valves during testing of the jack to correct a problem. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 14: Ram Seal First photo --The dental pick is too weak to remove the ram seal on the bottom end of the ram. I used a small screwdriver. Notice how the seal cracks and breaks after forty years. Remove the nylon collar behind the seal and clean away any fragments. Second photo --The parts kit includes three ram seals. Two of them appear to match the old seal in the first photo. Check the opening of the cylinder with a caliper and use the seal that most closely matches it. The new ram seals are not very pliable. The LP280 Membrane System is rated for a maximum supply pressure of 300 P.S.I. (20 bar) and works well with the 190PSI (13 bar) maximum pressure from the Rotary Screw Compressor. An Input Back Pressure Regulator reduces these input pressures to appropriate levels for Nitrox production. The air is then heated to a temperature that provides stability over a wide range of ambient conditions, is optimal for membrane permeation and provides protection to the membrane from condensate. The heated air enters the Membrane, which is made up of thousands of miniature hollow fibers. The walls of these fibers are semi-permeable and designed for different gases to move through them (or permeate) at different speeds. The resulting gas mixture is known as the permeate. As air flows through the hollow fibers, both oxygen and nitrogen permeate through the fiber walls. The oxygen permeates faster than the nitrogen, which produces permeate with an oxygen content greater than air. The gas that reaches the end of the hollow fibers without permeating is almost entirely nitrogen and is discharged. The flow rate of this discharge is set by the factory via a fixed orifice, which controls the permeate to contain a constant 44 O 2 under normal operating conditions. The permeate is a concentrated mixture that must be diluted with additional air prior to entering the Nitrox Compressor. It exits the Membrane at ambient to slightly negative pressure and travels into the Mixing Tube, where it mixes homogeneously with filtered outside air. The amount of dilution, and thus final O 2, is obtained by adjusting the Input Back Pressure Regulator. As input pressure is increased, permeate flow increases, air flow decreases, and a higher O 2 Nitrox is produced. As input pressure is decreased, permeate flow decreases, air flow increases, and a lower O 2 Nitrox is produced.